Diy Concrete Jacking - The erosion problem needs to be solved or it will happen again. I'm putting in some footings in my basement to set some house jacks on. I can push a piece of rebar down another 18 inches easily so what do i need to do to. A pro would have the correct equipment and be able to back fill. I was planning to put five 2ftx2ft footings under the length of the beam overhead the problem is after cutting the first hole and digging down about a foot theres water in the hole and is just a wet clay mess. From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6 wide and to the bottom of the concrete. They said the polyjacking was not typically used for water drainage problem.
Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp. @stevewellens only excavating it could confirm whether it was filled with the right material or not. The pressure (pounds per square inch) that is created is high compared to the weight of the concrete and the slab will come up. (a 1″ cylinder with 175 lb.
If i went with brick, pitching it properly would be impossible. It can be done and back filled. Of force applied will result in 175 psi pressure.) if your slab is still level, you can just pump the mix into the void and it. Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp.
Wherever needed, a reasonable solution? Is poly jacking in a few appropriate places, i.e. I'm putting in some footings in my basement to set some house jacks on. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.
Through The Years The Concrete Should Only Be Getting Stronger.
They said the polyjacking was not typically used for water drainage problem. Work in stages and block it up as you go. If it was a simple slab i think a diy person can do it fine but a load bearing wall added to the mix that is driven on would be out of my comfort zone. I was planning to put five 2ftx2ft footings under the length of the beam overhead the problem is after cutting the first hole and digging down about a foot theres water in the hole and is just a wet clay mess.
@Stevewellens Only Excavating It Could Confirm Whether It Was Filled With The Right Material Or Not.
Not more than 2 feet behind the wall is a poured concrete stoop leading to the entry way of the house. I have a concrete driveway and path to my front door. This is one job i leave to the pro's. The pressure (pounds per square inch) that is created is high compared to the weight of the concrete and the slab will come up.
Save The Sod By Wrapping It In A Tarp.
Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. A quick analysis reveals a maximum tensile stress on the bottom of the slab being about 235 psi when using the technique in your answer. I can push a piece of rebar down another 18 inches easily so what do i need to do to. Create a cove between the sidewalk and the house that keeps water away from the house for a height of something over 1, and seals the house side of the slots.
And At That Height, I Assume The Bending And Bowing Would Continue To Be An Issue.
I wonder if polyjacking the stoop can make its top a slope away from the house, thus to guide the water away. It can be done and back filled. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break. (a 1″ cylinder with 175 lb.
A pro would have the correct equipment and be able to back fill. And at that height, i assume the bending and bowing would continue to be an issue. The erosion problem needs to be solved or it will happen again. If it was a simple slab i think a diy person can do it fine but a load bearing wall added to the mix that is driven on would be out of my comfort zone. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.